Four new labels to get excited about at Copenhagen Fashion Week
Copenhagen Fashion Week is the largest fashion week in the Nordic region and takes place twice a year in January and August. Like a handful of other, smaller fashion festivals (like Pitti Uomo in Florence), Copenhagen Fashion Week has been steadily growing a legion of followers since its introduction only 13 years ago in 2006.
Though still in its infancy, Copenhagen fashion week is the result of a merger of previous Danish clothing trade fairs - Dansk Modeuge and Dansk Herremodeuge - which both date back to the 1950s. The week-long fashion event attracts new Scandinavian designers that are hungry for the world stage, as well as appealing to established hot-ticket Nordic brands like J. Lindeberg, Ganni and Hofmann Copenhagen.
If you ask me, it's also one of the most underrated street style extravaganzas on the fashion calendar. It's a chance for insider heavy-hitters (and Danish natives) like Pernille Teisbaek and Jeanette Madsen to flaunt their delectable wardrobes. With shows underway until this weekend , these are four emerging (and old) labels worth their cloth.
If Stine Goya’s mesmerising collection of patterned trousers or delicate pouch bags aren’t enough of a pull, then her smart tailoring and showpieces will be. Stine Goya is known for its playful universe and colourful prints in feminine silhouettes that are designed to empower women to celebrate and express individuality.
Since its inception in 2006, the brand has been a bold and colourful injection to the Scandinavian fashion scene and collections are built on lasting design, with the aim to make a small, conscious imprint on the ever-evolving cycle of fashion.
Goya’s SS19 collection, titled ‘A Palazzo’, is an homage to the Italian architect and design illusionist Renzo Mongiardino. This season introduces draping silhouettes in prints inspired by floral brocades, traditional Italian upholstery prints, and a selection of billowing skirts, high-neck blouses and tailored trousers in graceful hues of sky blue.
Even if you’re not shopping (Stine Goya is already sold at Farfetch and has created a capsule collection especially for Net-a-porter) its website and Instagram feed is a visual buffet. stinegoya.com
Drawing on a rich culture of design, Cecile Bahnsen combines couture craftsmanship with sculptural silhouettes, reinterpreted for a contemporary audience. Each garment is handmade with traditional techniques, intricate detailing and uniquely designed fabrics to present a timeless expression of modern femininity.
AW19 comes in the form of feminine smock dresses, fil-coupé midi dresses and ethereal gowns in brilliant, virgin white and black. Models walked in a large congregation together to the sound of beating music at the large, open show space in Dampfærgevej. The collection is interspersed with sophisticated separates and dashes of floral motifs in navy and dandelion yellow. ceciliebahnsen.com
Serene Le Schmidt
With clients like Princess Mary of Denmark it quickly becomes obvious why Soeren Le Schmidt is considered one of the best. The Danish couture designer and tailor is best recognised in Denmark for his skilful unisex tailoring, which he mastered while training as a tailor in West Copenhagen.
When he’s not designing one-off bridal pieces (or gowns fit for a Royal dinner gala), Le Schmidt focuses on unisex ready-to-wear collections.
His website describes the design DNA as “Tokyo underground meets rock & roll”. On reflection, Le Schmidt’s work is best characterised as minimalistic and edgy with architectural references throughout.
Le Schmidt held his debut eponymous show last season and is considered one to watch. soerenleschmidt.com
Baum Und Pferdgarten
By any account, Baum Und Pferdgarten is not a new or emerging label. Founded in 1999 by Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave, the brand has slowly forged its way into the mainstream. A key to its success is designing collections that have high luxury appeal, but with high-street affordability.
Baumgarten and Hestehave’s design style is simple, which typically goes against the cool, Instagram-moment Scandi aesthetic, but it works. The SS19 collection is awash with versatile ensembles like a blue floral jacquard skirt with a white belted jacket, embroidered gingham day dresses and playful mini skirts. It’s ambitious Danish style for grown ups. Baumundpferdgarten